Ask a North Macedonian ski-tourer why they fell in love with the sport, and they’ll probably tell you it was because of the fall of communism.

Ski-touring in this Balkan region developed out of a deep frustration with the lack of development in ski resorts, the fall of communism leaving them with the existence of nothing but old infrastructure from the 80s that was perpetually broken.

“You’re just stuck at the base and you’re looking up at these beautifully powdered slopes above you and the lift is never working” UIAGM guide Metodi Chilimanov remembers, laughing.

As the years went on, no investments came, and nothing improved. Metodi admits it was frustrating, having to rely on faulty systems to continue doing the sport he loved, so he stopped.

“I stopped compromising with what I could get from the lift. Me and my friends just started to hike to the top of the hill and ski down. It was liberating,” Metodi reminisces. 

“We stopped depending on the resorts, on these lifts, and what the lifts allow you to ski. We just kept pushing to get to the higher peak, and we were finally able to access the good stuff.”

There, ski-touring in North Macedonia was born, out of the liberating independence of relying on nothing but yourself, your gear, and the weather. For many in the Balkans, it quite quickly became more than a sport, it was the definition of personal ambition.

In the late 90s and early 2000s, ski-touring started to gain traction in North Macedonia, as local ultramarathon runners and climbers turned to other forms of winter training and began to discover the untapped potential of the region’s mountain ranges.

Ski-touring became especially popular in the the Sharr Mountains and Pelister National Park, renowned for their rugged terrain and high altitudes. Home to pristine powder, challenging climbs, and steep descents, they were the perfect playground for athletes and adventurers who were looking to push their limits. 

The appeal of untouched routes and unspoiled snowfields soon drew ski-tourers into neighbouring Albania and Kosovo. Day-trips up the peaks of North Macedonia turned to multi-day adventures traversing the borders of the Balkans. 

Yet, despite the increasing popularity of ski-touring in the region, the peaks of North Macedonia, Kosovo and Albania remain a hidden gem, largely untouched by mass tourism.

Metodi, who grew up in the ski-hub of Popova Shapka, observes that while there has been developments to the sport, the lack of infrastructure has largely kept the influx of foreign ski-tourists at bay.

“We are alone on most of the mountains. Even on Korab Mountain, the highest peak, sometimes all we can see is our own tracks from the previous week,” Metodi says.

Although there are plans to further develop some ski resorts in North Macedonia, there has been a conscious shift towards eco-friendly and low-impact tourism opportunities that serve to protect the natural beauty of the region.

Instead of investing in permanent, and polluting, infrastructure, ski-touring companies in the Balkans have opted to use snowcats - fuel-efficient vehicles designed to transport skiers across snowy terrain without the need for a lift system. 

There has also been a shift away from energy-intensive resorts. During the COVID pandemic, ski guides began creating temporary expedition camps at the base of mountain ranges. These camps, initially created to escape lockdowns, soon emerged into a sustainable business model offering skiers unparalleled access to untouched slopes. 

“We would make our own camps on the base of these huge mountains, where the snow conditions were perfect and we had the slopes all to ourselves,” Metodi explains.

After three years of research, innovation and investment, these camps have expanded to accommodate tourists on a much larger scale. Strategically positioned along the borders of mountain ranges in the Balkans, ski-touring companies used the post-pandemic period to secure border permits, creating a network that allows for seamless multi-country tours.

“Now the countries are more connected, more open. We take guests to climb the highest peak of Macedonia and ski into Albania, and the next day we do it the other way around, or we can go into Kosovo. It’s amazing, the potential is unlimited,” Metodi adds.

From ski-touring’s humble beginnings as a response to decaying infrastructure, it has grown into a  sustainable and dynamic sport that is reshaping the future of alpine exploration. Whether carving through fresh powder in the Sharr Mountains or traversing the borders of Albania and Kosovo, this is a region that promises unparalleled adventure for those who dare to dream.